Guided by ancient goldsmithing techniques, the Santa Fe-based designer channels the past into pieces that feel both timeless and of the moment.
When Denise Betesh created her first Chain Maille bracelet, it was meant as a personal gift for her mother’s 75th birthday. The piece was striking—twice as wide as her later designs and set with 75 floating diamonds. Each of its 189 links was hand-forged, a defining characteristic of Betesh’s work and a reflection of her devotion to ancient goldsmithing techniques. “Alloying recycled gold and milling it to create wire or sheet metal. The meditative repetition of chain making or granulation to create a design completes the process,” she explains.
That slow, methodical pace shapes both the designer’s relationship to her work and the results themselves, which range from granulated square-diamond stud earrings to an oval green tourmaline ring with a sculpted bezel, as well as meticulously crafted necklaces and bracelets, all rendered in buttery 22k gold. “Taking the time to explore different options along the way leaves room for greater inspiration and refinement,” she says.
22k & Oval Green Tourmaline Sculpted Bezel Ring, 11.12ct
Betesh’s earliest memory of jewelry begins not with precious metal, but with fiber and experimentation. “As a teenager of the sixties, I was into macramé,” she recalls. What began as corded bands evolved into wire, then silver. Eventually, by chance, one of her pieces made its way to Aldo Cipullo, the designer behind the Cartier Love bracelet. From there, the trajectory shifted quickly. “The next thing I knew, I was wrapping crystal pendants in gold bands that ended up being sold at Cartier.”
That early momentum was grounded by Betesh’s studies in art and jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, where access to the museum’s collection allowed her to study ancient Roman chains and granulated works from the Greeks, Romans, Etruscans, and Egyptians. “The work spoke to me of beauty, history, and ancestry,” she says.
Following a ten-year hiatus from jewelry—which included a stint at Vidal Sassoon—Betesh returned to the bench with a design sensibility shaped by both precision and place. “The work was all about technique—very precise, exact, and the new classic. That definitely resonates in my work,” she says. Her upbringing in New York City and the past 35 years spent in Santa Fe have further informed her aesthetic, which she describes as minimal, classic and timeless. “I love the quiet landscape here,” she says. “And, of course, the light.”
22k & Diamond Small Granulated Square Studs, .10ct
Working primarily in recycled high-karat gold, Betesh favors the precious metal for both its history and integrity. “Twenty-two and 24k gold have been used since the beginning of time. I love the color, feel and texture,” she says. She is also drawn to precious stones in historical cuts, such as rose cuts, for the way they refract light, and remains committed to using conflict-free stones. “When looking at gemstones, I am aware of their connection to the earth. I believe it’s important to give them a worthy resting place.”
The result? “I like to think my work will become future heirlooms,” she says. “I believe it transcends cultural boundaries and hope it will be relevant and cherished for generations to come.”